SAWSTOP 01
THE COST 02
01
Brake cartridge.
About $120 to replace.
02
Saw blade.
About $50 to replace.
03
Why it's on you.
Members who trigger the brake pay to reset it. It's generally the only equipment damage we charge for, and knowing how the system works is the easiest way to never pay it.
HOW IT WORKS 03
01
The signal.
The blade carries a small electrical signal that a processor watches continuously. Your body is conductive, so touching the blade changes that signal.
02
The reaction.
The moment the signal changes, a heavy-duty spring drives an aluminum brake pawl into the teeth of the spinning blade.
03
The result.
The teeth dig into the aluminum, stopping the blade cold and retracting it below the table in milliseconds.
AVOID A TRIP 04
The system can't tell a finger from any other conductive material. Check what you're cutting before you cut it.
01
Wet wood.
Don't cut it. Moisture raises conductivity.
02
Pressure-treated lumber.
Only when it's fully dry. The copper in the treatment is conductive.
03
Embedded metal.
No nails, staples, or foil backing.
04
Conductive sheet goods.
No mirrored acrylic, carbon fiber, or laser-cut wood with heavy char.
05
Jigs and fences.
Check for metal parts that could touch the blade.
06
Have to cut it anyway?
Use Bypass Mode, below.
BYPASS MODE 05
For aluminum, wet wood, or anything else conductive, switch the brake off for that cut. It turns itself back on as soon as the blade stops spinning.
01
Make sure the Start/Stop paddle is OFF and the main power is ON.
02
Turn the Bypass Key clockwise and hold it for at least 1 second, until the red LED flashes once.
03
While still holding the key, pull the Start/Stop paddle to ON.
04
Keep holding the key for another second after the motor starts, until the red LED flashes again.
05
Release the key. A slowly blinking green LED means the brake is disabled.
TABLE SAW BASICS 06
The brake guards against serious amputation. Everything else is still on the person at the saw.
01
Kickback.
Always use the riving knife or blade guard so the workpiece can't be thrown back at you.
02
Hand position.
Keep your hands out of the blade's path. Never reach around or over the saw.
03
Push sticks.
Use one whenever your hand would come within 6 inches of the blade.
04
No freehand cuts.
Always use the fence or miter gauge.
MAINTENANCE 07
Five common jobs. The full manual covers the rest.
Download the manual01
Recovering an activated brake.
Disconnect power and remove the table insert. Reset the arbor retraction by turning the elevation wheel counter-clockwise until it clicks, then raise the arbor. Unlock the cartridge key and use a blade wrench to lever the brake and blade off the mounting pins together.
02
Blade-to-brake spacing (the nickel test).
The gap between the blade and the brake rim must be between 1/16" and 3/32", about the thickness of a nickel. To adjust, use the yellow brake positioning bolt on top of the arbor block: clockwise decreases the spacing, counter-clockwise increases it.
03
Fence alignment.
Check that the fence is parallel to the miter slot. If it's off, loosen the two screws on the fence tube assembly with a hex key, adjust until the fence face is flush with the miter slot edge, and retighten.
04
Cleaning and lubrication.
Blow dust out of the internal components (trunnions, gears) with compressed air. Clean the elevation threaded rod and worm gears, then apply a light coat of lithium grease. No dry lube.
05
Belt replacement.
Open the belt guard and tilt the saw to 45° to relieve tension. Remove the old belt and install the new one with the ribs aligned to the pulley grooves. If the pulleys are misaligned, adjust the motor position or add washers to the mounting bolts.
QUESTIONS 08
Ask around on the floor, or send us a note on Slack and we'll point you to the right person.
Post on Slack
